Vientiane love

Vientiane, the capital of the Lao people's democratic republic, was about to be left out of our trip completely but with the rest of our company traveling there we decided to spend a night there also. We were a little worried about our border crossing to Vietnam, particularly whether or not we would need a visa there. Everybody said that Finnish citizens can stay there for 15 days without a visa but none of the Lao people we asked haven't ever heard about this. After asking from the Vietnamese embassy in Vientiane we were sure that it was ok to enter the country without a visa.

I was very interested about the city so I was compelled to wake up at six a.m. In reality I got up at eight but the morning was still very beautiful and fresh maybe because of the geographical location of the place. Also, I was eager to see the architecture which is said to be the most well preserved from the colonial era in the whole Indochina. Everything was so true!

On the morning I was thinking to rent a bike but after a little wandering I forgot the whole thing. There was some very unique book shops as well as parisian styled cafés. First I was just going to check out some handicraft shops but then I got carried away and found myself sipping french roast coffee in a small café inside some local family's living room. Everything was so beautiful! I was totally hysterical and just took pictures mouth open. My kind of place where I could move in any day!

The real beauty of the city, I think, is the French charm without the traffic, pollution, tourists and all of the side products of the things mentioned. The houses are in a pretty bad condition but look good because of that. The people have no rush anywhere and they are genuinely interested of you. In my opinion, this makes a perfect city. You would think it's not even a city but a little village where everything works as easily as in cities. Great place! And one huge thing of course, the whole city don't have a shopping mall at all! Everything can be found in little private-owned shops locally made!

What more can I say! With some lovely mental images of the world's most beautiful urban place we left on the same night by a sleeping bus to Phonsavanh but that's a completely other story...

 

Caving in Laos

From Don det we booked boat tickets to the mainland and bus tickets as far as to Savannakhet. Meeting some wonderful people and maybe even falling in love on the way there the trip was spectacular.

We met a very nice couple from Israel who were also going to the same direction as us. While talking with them how this was one more twelve-hour bus ride to us they inquired us why we were going to Savannakhet. With nothing to answer we changed our minds, and tickets also, on the way and headed to Tha Khaek with them. 

When arriving late to some new and a strange city it's always nice to start searching accommodation and food, the basic essentials for staying alive. Arriving to Tha Khaek we got the accomodation but not food as the whole town, our guesthouse's receptionist included, was already sleeping. Then, not being eaten in twelve hours, there was nothing else to do than to join other people who were spending the night on the guesthouse's lobby bar. Good thing we did because we got in this pre-organized trip to Kong Lo -cave with three more Israeli girls and a Russian couple. We also made the price a little lower for them and also negotiated a ride to Vientiane after the cave visit.

The next morning when we left the guesthouse very early we didn't have any Lao money left so we went to exchange some more. During this, I somehow lost my cell phone and didn't find it even thought we searched it for over an hour. I even checked the security cameras in the money exchange place and the guesthouse c.s.i.-style but still no phone anywhere! Being a little sad about all the photos and especially videos we continued the journey to the caves because we still had a long day ahead of us.

The scenery in the cave was out of this world and it was impossible to capture that on the photos, you have to go to see it yourself! The cave was not enterable without a guide and our guide was very energetic and even without the same language we get along perfectly! There was also a driver with a little riverbaot what somebody, who have been to Mekong region, recognices for sure. First of all it was a little scary because I had been reading there would be fist-sized spiders and other wild things. The cave was 7,5km long and it took about an hour to go through it. We also got to walk some little shores of sand inside it while in other parts it was totally dark and we could only hear the bats in the ceiling, some parts 100 meters tall.

Coming back we headed to Vientiane and found a very cheap youth guesthouse to stay the night. More about Vientiane and other love connections on the next episode!

Border crossings and islands

From Phnom Penh we booked bus tickets as far as we could because staying still had taken over for the last week and we were aching to get somewhere far finally. With our lovely guesthouse host Ma we got the tickets to Stung Treng, sleepy little city 64 kilometers south from the border of Laos on the Cambordian side. On the way we met a Finnish guy who had been traveling

several months in Southeast Asia.

Having been told that the bus trip was about to take only five hours we were shocked when finding out that the actual duration was twelve hours. I knew that the bus companies exagerrate the duration a little but that was something else. Because the bus left seven o'clock we had no time to eat anything before the departure. Also, Olli still suffered with some diarrhea symptoms on the bus terminal and also threw up just on the beginning of the journey. It was bound to be legendary for sure. Luckily the bus had no a/c so it wasn't cold in there like usually in asian, especially v.i.p., buses. The journey went fast while reading and listening to music and also watching the awesome scenery.

It was already night when we arrived to Stung Treng and we were very hungry. Trying to find any restaurant or more clearly, anything, in this very small city we accidentally walked straight into a local wedding after party. With our backpacks on and food buzzing in our eyes we soon managed to exit and find a relatively cheap accomodation. Price was seven USD for a double room with hotel standards and being the only place to sleep in the city we took it. Then, after a huge meal sleeping was more than welcome.

The next morning our bus to the border was about to leave eight a.m. It came 9.30. While drinking beer for breakfast time went by surprisingly fast. In bus we were charged some extra, which is quite common in these countries' land borders, but this time with style. The driver told us straight away that the visa would cost 5 USD more than it says in the official info and we also had to pay an extra fee for two stamps in our passports, exiting Cambodia and entering Laos, othervise he wouldn't let us inside the bus. After a little negotiation, we were the only ones who knew anything about the actual prices on the bus, and being a little pissed off we finally agreed to co-operate even though knowing into who's pockets the money will finally go. Rest of the trip went very smoothly and we arrived in Laos maybe three hours after leaving Stung Treng.

Very close to the border on Laos' side locates an area of the Mekong river where the depth decreases drastically. On the dry season there's a formation called Four thousand islands which in the dryest years consists of, surprise, four thousand islands. We headed to the main island, Don det, where the atmosphere couldn't been more chilled out. Even though many Westerners had their businesses on the island it was far from a typical traveller hell. Everybody were very relaxed and the weather was nice. We managed to bargain a good deal in a form of a two-people bungalow for 7 EUR per night. Not that bad with an own veranda and a hammock ready to use! There was also many good restaurants where we got to know to Laos' awesome food culture as well as Beerlao.

We spent a couple of days there just relaxing. On the last night we also made a huge effort on our wine bottle that we had carried all the way from Bangkok. We had planned to consume it on the new year's eve but, unfortunately, we were not feeling so wine-minded then. Now, with our new lovely wine expert friends from Chile, we finished our travel companion with this beautiful bottle of Kaiken malbec, my favorite wine. After that it was once again a good feeling to leave because staying still, at least for me, is very hard by nature.

New year full of glamour

First of all, cogratulations to glorious Anssi Koivuranta for winning in Innsbruck!
We're now in Don det -island in Laos and this place is better known as the Four thousand islands. It's been a while since the last blogging but also some unfortunate things have happened to us. More shocking revelations coming soon!

The last morning we were on an island I had a little bathroom related emergency and also a little panic because we only had an hour before check out and two hours before the two-hour ferry ride back to mainland. Being forced to get familiar with some Imodium I was ready for the trip although the weather was very windy and the boat was rocking so hard that water flew to my lap once in a while. Before the boatride I had also vomited some blood which was nothing to worry about later but the mental panicing was enormous at that time. All and all I managed to get to mainland without throwing up even though there was an Australian guy next to me throwing up couple of times. Then we found a nice and comfortable double room with an own bathroom for only 40 USD.

Taking account that the date was 30th of December we were compelled to spend some money if we wanted a double room and all we managed to get was a sort of like a massage salon, where were places to sleep for five persons and the price was 80 USD. It was a good idea to take it because on that night Olli got sick also. While I was getting better, Olli spent his new year in the bathroom.

After getting a little better in a couple of days, we headed to Phnom Penh by bus and spent the night in there. The place we spent the night was familiar to us from before and the owner family of the place very kind. They were them who invited us to spend the new year with them in Koh Kong but we were unable to go there. Best greetings to Ma especially and thanks for the hospitality! On this one night in Phnom Penh we went to check out the market scene in the central market but it was just about to close.

So far we managed to find our way to here but more about that on the next chapter.

Holiday in southern Cambodia

Heippa hei to everybody! We're now on an island of Koh Rong in a beautiful and sympatic country of Cambodia. Last few days have been very relaxing and peaceful and tomorrow we're heading to another place on the western coast called Koh Kong. Actually we became friends with this khmer guy who had a guesthouse in Phnom Penh and he invited us to his hometown, Koh Kong, to spend the new year in there. Without thinking too much we accepted the offer right away.

Arriving to the island time was something over six and the sun had just set. We had no place to stay but we were full of hope to browse with lots of options. Well, our hopefullness ran out very quickly while we found out that the whole island was full booked until January. With full of adventure spirit going on and almost fixing up the hammocks to sleep on a beach we scored a tent accommodation for a hefty ten USD per night. By the way, they use double currency here, USA dollars and Cambodian riels, where one USD is about 4000 riels.

Waking up at six a.m. the ocean rushing a couple of meters from us I went to a little walk on the beach. I went to another side of the island but afterwards I found out it really wasn't the other side. I have been reading about this island several years ago when there was a Finnish guy having a bar, nowadays enjoying a cult fame, and the first bungalows only under construction. Comparing what this is now, it's a complete opposite. Local entrepreneurs have had plans about an airstrip in here and also a road that goes around the whole island but either hasn't completed yet. Anyhow, ignoring western-owned restaurants offering same Khmer food five times more expensive this is still relatively easy place to just stay and chill out. There's really no activities here.

We've met loads of British tourists here and also many Aurstralians. Beer is cheap but with other things island prices do exist, such as dorm room á 5 USD, bungalow á 35-65 USD etc... Olli was feeling sea sick when we came here and threw up a couple of times on the way. The boat ride was about to last for two hours but actually it was closer to three because of the high wind.

So far the best thing in this island have been the local kids who are so eager to all the electronical devices such as iPods and headphones. We had a little experience with them yesterday when we were having breakfast in a local food stall when Olli gave his iPhone for charging and when getting it back they had locked his sim card and played some Worms. The sim locking isn't sure yet but the incident is still under investigation. Nice kids!

Yesterday night we winessed a die hard game of bingo in a beach bar with the whole bar crossing the right numbers. The first prize was a modest bottle of Mekong whiskey worth 2,5 USD but it's the thought that counts, right? Also, many of our friends that we got to know to in the main land town of Sihanoukville have came to this island. Yesterday we ran into these couple of Argentinians who are really nice and got to refresh some of our solid Rioplatense. Having nothing to do with this, I also had barracuda for the first time ever yesterday. It was good!

So far we've met two people who have scored a job in here very easily so for somebody being a westerner and wanting to stay long periods of time someplace warm this is an ideal destination. Also, almost every bar in Sihanoukville had a sign saying ”Western staff wanted”.

Killing fields and Tuol Sleng prison

This day was a little more down to earth than the beginning of the trip. We visited the must see places of Phnom Penh, the Killing fields and Tuol Sleng prison. Everybody visits, or at least should visit, these places in Phnom Penh because the genocide, happened during years 1975-79, still has so much to do with the Cambodian history and identity.

The prison itself locates almost in the center of the city and is actually an old school building. The atmosphere was very spooky when we entered the building. We were running a little late after the long trip to the Killing fields and the sun was just about to set. It was also the closing time of the museum so there weren't lights on anymore in all of the rooms. With the darkness and flashlights from our cellphones battleing we marched in and checked the place out. It would've been more shocking with more facts provided and the top floors of the building consisted only of empty rooms with an empty bed on the center. With an idea in our minds it was very scary but as a museum, in my opinion, only a little effort was put into it.

The Killing fields were a little more out of the city and the drive there took about 30 minutes with a tuk tuk. We were provided some audio guides which featured some stories of the survivors as well as some former Khmer rouge officials.The place itself wasn't so shocking as I had thought because we didn't actually see anything, only places where the actions have taken place. Still, what it comes to the scenery, the place gave me a little view on where and what kind of places had the genocide taken place back in the days.

 

After all this insaneous history lesson we were compelled to go and chill our minds a little on a local restaurant. They gave us crayons free of charge and we got to let the artist inside us free.